Saturday, June 23, 2012

the Fashion World of JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: a San Francisco pilgrimage

So...when you are feeling burnt out and uninspired...when you feel like none gets you and that you at the end of your rope...what do you do??? Well you jump on a plane for a weekend of inspiration in San Francisco to see the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibit at the DeYoung museum!!!!!

I was in a very dark place and i really needed my cage rattled...and even NYC was feeling so oppressive to me....So on a whim this trip came into fruition...and as soon as it was planned I was off to the Left Coast!!!!

JPG {as i will now refer to him} was my very first fashion inspiration/obsession.....his clothing combined so many things i loved...a European sense ability...a sense of the Bourgeois....with a punk rock androgynous style that is both highly serious and has just the right touch of humor...and FUCK does fashion need a little humor sometimes!!!!! As a teenager I was obsessed with the way he turned fashion on its head...and with no formal training other than from his grandmother!!! He seemed like someone i wanted to emulate...L'Enfant Terrible!!! Flying in the face of fashion and having a fabulous time doing it!!!!!

SO come with me on this rather LONG journey {hey you could take photos!!!! I wasn't going to resist!!!!} and I hope you enjoy this trip as much as I did!!!!

At the start of the exhibit JPG himself greeted you as you entered!!! They had these cool {and unnerving} video projections on some of the mannequins was fund and as i stated before...sometimes a bit disturbing...but I loved it...

This first section focused on his obsession with the French sailor shirt in all its incarnations...One of JPG's most iconic pieces of clothing...and the visual cue most people are most familiar with indeed!!! La Mariner was something JPG was made to wear as a child but soon became a staple of his design...its simple graphic quality was something that appealed to many people and was cute but also had connotations of the sexuality of the sailor....He has reproduced this shirt in many fabrics and styles....

then on to his obsession with Madonna {the ORIGINAL Virgin}

Some Pierre et Gilles paintings

JPG released this house single in the 90''s actually a pretty amazing example of the better end of House from the time and the video {below} is truly EXQUISITE!!! Like an i-D magazine speed come to life!!!!

there were many video screens showing past shows with some familiar faces!!!!!

JPG,s Teddy Bear and first model Nana...with his FIRST cone bra!!!

This section 'the Boudoir" felt with his OBSESSION with corsetry...i mean other than Vivienne Westwood he really is credited with bringing the corset back into popular style

through his grandmother he became obsessed with corsetry...the look and the feel of it...the traditional fabrics and closures...the form and the functions...he took this tradition and twisted it as well..yet always keeping true to the original artistry!!!

the iconic cone bra!!!!! {Pre-Madonna}

the Madonna collection...behind glass so some renegade Queen doesn't run off with it!!!!

an adorable miniature doll

the corset molded and manipulated into many many configurations

this ENTIRE dress is made only with satin ribbons !!!! I mean do you even understand how HARD that is to work with?!?!? do you!?!?!?!? i was truly dying......

I just LOVE how he plays with menswear...the peacockery of it all!!! he celebrates masculinity in so many different ways and challenges us to wonder why??? why can't men wear luxurious fabrics and amazing clothing??? men in in dresses or skirts...there is no taboo in his it should be!!!!! He makes men remember the luxury they USED TO have in clothing....He whelped remind men that they have a right to beauty as well as women....

{THIS one almost went home with me!!! ;)  }

His Haute Couture version of the tattooed woman

the "nude dress!!! the belly button was even an "innie"!!!!! STUNNING!!! The idea of hiding in plain sight...that nothing should be secret...that theres beauty in the human form...

I mean....just all the work that went into this.....its really mind blowing

Dita Von Teese wore this stunning number....a black Swavorski a dream indeed.....or a sweet sweet nightmare!!!!

from Kylie Minogues tour...i LOVE the strings and sinewy muscle.....This was another personal have!!! Reminds me of "Slim Goodbody!!!" anyone else?!?!?!

A more Darque Bondagey section......Giving me High Fashion Fetish REALNESS!!!!

this was one of the first pieces of his i ever saw {in i-D magazine} and its always what i think of when i hear his iconic piece

a metal corset!!!!

Feathers in all forms....

Alligator skin dress/coat

This alligator dress was cut up and hand crouched back together by a 5th generation lacemaker....I mean......really?!?!?!?

this wedding gown just left me GAGGING!!!! THIS piece is just frightening...what seems like a fur pelt right???? NO!!!!! it is really a beaded piece of fabric that took over 1,00 hours to do...and somewhere hidden in the ear is a miniature portrait of JPG himself {a kindly old lady from NYC whispered this little did bit in my ear while i stood slick jawed in front of this miracle of craftsmanship!!!]

{a close look at the ear on the right reveals a smiling portrait of JPG!!!!!}

Hysterical yet amazing....

Most of the couture pieces had these placards telling you the actual amount of work that went into the you a higher appreciation for craft!!!!

just too amazing for words....

a beautiful Chantilly lace hat that is also a train.....


the Hasidic collection...JPG got in ALOT of trouble for this one...but as i have ALWAYS been obsessed with Hasidic clothing i LOVED it....he meant it as a tribute...but not many people took it that way...maybe it was the sequined yarmakules?!?!?!?

Cross Culture Mind-Fuckery

Bjork wore this in his runway show.....

I used to COVET these sheer printed shirts back in the day...eventually i got one...thank you Century 21!!!!!

JPG's love for Punk Rock translates into these Mad MAX-ish couture street pieces....mixing glamour with trash!!!! The beautiful rebel...the head banging ballerina.....Couture cunty-ness

you gotta love a codpiece!!! {and its PIERCED!!!}


tin cans and a garbage bag...HELLO!!!!!

another old fave from the i-D magazine armor.....all hand beaded as usual.....

Mohair plaid suit redux!!!! With a be-mohwked top hat.......

OBSESSED with this "bomb" purse!!!

SEE!!!! there it is again!!!

custom Doc's

these denim pieces were so intricate and delicate...amazing how you can manipulate such a utilitarian fabric in such an innovative and original way

tattooed "skin" boots {and bodysuit}

Bowery was a HUGE influence on obviously seen here....

Another menswear look...full skirt and a hat by Judy Blame!!!! I would love this in get perhaps...just something to wear to work...

another coat i used to covet!!! I still have the ad pulled from a magazine somewhere......

Russian influenced color blocking

its ALL ABOUT the back details!!!!!!

JPG wore this to the British MTV awards!!!!

Some of his sketches from "the Fifth Element" which he designed EVRY SINGLE outfit for!!! They really need to do a book of his sketches!!! He is a very talented illustrator!!!

SO my lovelies...I spent 8 hours in the exhibit...took pictures of almost EVERYTHING..chatted....gasped....swooned...laughed...teared up...and was indeed very very inspied...JPG remind me to keep the joy in everything you do...that fashion {and all its affiliated genres} should really be fun....and it could be serious and dark as well...but make sure that whatever you do you are enjoying yourself!!! I wis you all could have come with me...but i hope those of you that COULDN'T go could be as inspired as I was by these photos!!!!

Thank you Jean Paul...thank you for being a light at the end of my tunnel...for being a constant inspiration..and for forever being YOU!!!!



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